Some Impressions of Buenos Aires

It is a vast city, sprawling for miles, as this view from our apartment shows.

 It has all the hazards of a large city - be wary - carry your bag in front of you - do not wear jewellery or gold chains or expensive watches. This is particularly important on the underground where there are a lot of pickpockets and people selling books and other stuff. Kids as young as 5 or 6 are involved. Musicians entertain and some are good and so a coin kept handy to donate is useful, if others are doing so.

Public tansport is very cheap. 20 pence gets you into the underground (Subte) for any journey and that is why some ride and sell all day and others sleep or beg. We saw some boys sleeping there. We took a bus journey from La Boca to Palermo where we had an apartment, it took an hour and cost 25 pence. Taxis are cheap and I would not attempt any other way of getting from A to B at night. At the end of our block we never waited for more than 1 minute for a yellow and black radio car to turn up. Travel across town was rarely more than 5 pounds for 20 minutes. Initially I wrote down addresses where I wanted to go but soon knew my numbers! When I was living alone here, I took out my name and apartment address on a piece of paper and just enough money for the night. Entrance to a milonga was about 4 pounds, taxi there and back, say 8, bottle of water 2, so a night out for less than 15, much less if a group of you share the taxi. Add 3 if you want a glass of champagne.

The driving is a miracle - fast, little use of the horn, not aggressive and with no regard to lanes. When there is a bend all take the racing line so it is a bit like Formula 1, often without seat belts! Most roads are one way and there are lots of crossroads and I never worked out the priority. I think it is the 'who blinks first' principle.



The pavements are dreadful - where a paving stone has been remove there will be a pile of rubble and this will be every 50m. If you are in an expensive shopping area they may throw an old carpet over the rubble! The Argentines are fond of their dogs, another reason for watching your step, but maybe not so fond of walking them. There are lots of dog walkers and 10 dogs is the most we have seen, all walking in harmony.



Of course there are all the benefits of a big city with so much to do during the day and any guide book will take you through those attractions. We had an apartmnt in Palermo which is relatively safe for walking around. It is a great area for shopping with countless individual shops and Alto Palermo for the biggest shopping mall which we did not bother with as it was all the international names.

The people seemed really friendly and countless times when we were arguing over which way round the map should be turned (actually not at all) someone would help us. It really helps to know some Spanish but we muddled through.

If you are of improver/intermediate standard and prepared to do simple things and not try to impress (because you won't) and just be one of the crowd then you can have a good time at the milongas. A few Argentines can stand out in a crowded milonga but mostly it is keeping up with the crowd, know your position, stay in lane and just be in wonder of where you are.

An Estancia Visit

A luxury coach, with a steady driver (!), took us 114 km into the pampas. The setting was lovely; it had been made into a park with trees and birds such that I saw more birds in 10 minutes than the whole 5 weeks put together. Apparently anything growing more than 6 inches high has been planted by man. Somehow the beef raised on this vast pampas is the best.

We were greeted with an empanada and by a gaucho and a senorita in colonial dress.

There was time to look at the horses and watch a bit of polo - there are enough rich Argentinians to call this a popular sport.

Next a tour of the castle - an elaborate house built about 1900 in a variety of European styles and now a hotel. There was a wedding in the church and tables and chairs had been set outside but photos were to be in the castle.

Then to the serious business of the asado (the barbeque).

They were probably catering for 100, our group was about 20. Salad and then lots of well cooked meat but I have been spoilt eating at Don Julio's, just 2 blocks from the apartment, where the meat is cooked exactly to your liking.

Then the gauchos dance their folk dances similar to what we have seen at milongas but with much stamping of feet!

Finally the gauchos on their horses and some fast riding and much laughter and interaction with the audience - not sure what it was about though!

A final cake and drink and we were on the bus back. A very worthwhile day, pity about the meat!

Another Visit to Nino Bien

Nino Bien was the culmination of Regina's 16 hour non-stop day of retail therapy, dancing at Ideal, a marvellous steak dinner and more dancing at this famous venue.
Marlon Brando lives and dances tango at Nino Bien! As broad as a door, grey hair pulled back and tied into a pigtail, a serious face that has not smiled this century. However crowded the dance floor, you would not bump into this man - a nod to his hit man and that would be the end of your dancing (or more) for the evening! I was within 18" of his massive frame and the possibility of death and not returning to the UK or Nino Bien!
There were two tables facing each other across the floor - rival mafia gangs? Suited, serious men who I cannot describe as I did not dare look long enough. Just a quick glance was followed by some quick steps to move past before any chance of eye contact.
Certainly this was the best dressed milonga but so crowded the dancing was a shuffle and a turn when possible. No chance for those long leg extensions that Carlos wants for us.
We recognise people from other milongas we have attended and nods are exchanged - we need another couple of months to enhance the integration process. Will there even be another visit soon.

Carlos by Regina - Guest Author of Bob's Blog

If Confiteria la Ideal took on human form it would be Carlos; black suit, white shirt, tie and Tango Salon danced with elegance, precision and such beauty.
.
We had two lessons, nominally of an hour but after 3 we had to force him to stop! We went to his apartment on Arenales where his studio floor had masking tape to check we could walk a line, giro a circle and keep our feet the correct distance apart when in the embrace. He is full of enthusiasm for true tango to be danced the right way. 'Pause, intention, action' , 'tak, tak, tak...' as we move in time to the music. 'Rosanna...watch' ;'Bob, elegance, scoop', 'NO!', 'the floor is your friend', 'Practice, practice...'.

The surroundings in Ideal fit him as well as his suit - he would blend into Cafe Tortoni in contrast to the tourists who are like pimples on an otherwise perfect skin. His enthusiasm for tango and for us to learn tango is boundless and we cannot get to the man behind the tango master. He is an enigma, an intrigue, a fascination. What has influenced his passion for tango? Loneliness? Loss? Only his dark brown eyes and his beautiful persona hide a tortured soul. He represents Buenos Aires in all it's facets, he represents the Buenos Aires tango that we will sadly miss.

Entertaining the Tourists

Confiteria la Ideal is on the tourists list for seeing tango (maybe those who don't want the fancy show and dinner). So many of the table are occupied by people who have their eyes glued to the dancing or maybe just to the shoes. However there is looking and looking! This is pleasant viewing by the interested. At Salon Canning it was an interrogation and detailed analysis where you knew that each slightly misplaced step would be noted down and held against you. The eyes were aware of the quality and tastefullness of each pair of shoes. I felt I should ask permission before crossing the eye line of some of the more fierce gazes from, let us say, the mature female element. Decidedly scarey women!
There were only a few couples dancing with one or two very accomplished performances deserving of applause. Regina and I found ourselves dancing a milonga as the only couple on the floor and I am sure you realise that I am writing this because, we got a round of applause! Later Rosanna and her Argentine partner were equally appreciated.
We had the best evening's dancing of the holiday, cementing Ideal as our favourite venue.

Tigre

Tigre is an hour by train from Buenos Aires and a day out for many portenos. We travelled out on the smooth, new, Tren de la Costa. A pleasant if not spectacular journey. Off the train it presents itself like Skegness but we quickly got past that to very pleasant riverside (and an excellent restaurant).

Tigre is on the delta of the River Plate and there are many boats offering tours. We spent an intriguing hour and were surprised that there were so many houses, presumably summer houses for the rich of Buenos Aires.
So we had a good day out but it was not as pretty as I had expeted from the publicity.

Two Milongas in One Night!

La Glorieta
This is an open air milonga in the Belgrano district (north Buenos Aires). It is set in what is more like a large band stand, 20m across with wrought iron around and supporting a canopy. It has an excellent tiled floor and the atmosphere is wonderful. We went both Saturday and Sunday nights and although crowded it is so good to be there amongst the locals. The girls got plenty of dances with Argentine men. In particular the elderly men were wonderful in their subtle movements evoking beautiful fluid movements from their followers, which they never knew they could achieve. I had one lovely dance (and she was Argentine) which earned a thank you kiss!
La Viruta
We arrived here and the place was crowded with classes taking place, three of them in the large hall. We watched the beginners class and it was so pleasing to see young Argentinians waddling along, looking at their feet and treading on toes!! I thought they were born knowing how to tango. We moved up two groups and joined in although about 3/4 through the class. We got the step quite quickly but it was really difficult to see the teachers as we just crowded round in a circle. The start of the milonga brought the class to an end.
It was a large hall with 3 rows of tables all around and many people eating and drinking and dancing as a secondary activity. Of course no doubt things changed as the milonga was due to go on until 6am! Definitely the younger set (casually dressed) and there for a long Friday night.
We left about 2am so would have missed the good dancers.

A Day fit for a Queen

Regina flew into Buenos Aires at 9am, was at the apartment by 11 and in Comme il Faut by 2pm. She asked for shiny silver and fell in love with the first pair put in front of her. The room filled with envy and wide eyes gazed at these beautiful creations which I had to hold onto tight as they were the last pair.
By 4pm we were all dancing at Confiteria la Ideal and both girls were dancing with Argentinian men .
By 9pm Regina was eating a succulent, perfectly cooked steak.
A good day!

Making Friends

Sharing the same hotel and tours of Iguazu were a lovely couple, Lucia and Tiger. We walked around together a lot and benefitted from their language skills - 4 or so each, putting our feeble attempts at Spanish to shame. We talked about many things social, cultural and scientific and only towards the end of our visit did we find out he was a Grandmaster in chess, the best in Sweden and noted for his inventive play. Wow!

While we have been struggling with our various maps (which have north orientated in different ways on the pages), many people have come up to us to help. I had one young Argentine walk half way round the block to take me to a shop that would top up my mobile. On another occasion I was helped to find the number of the phone I was using so that it could be topped up.

We chose to make a bus ride without realising that you have to have coins. A young girl changed a 2 peso note but then gave us 75 cents so that we could buy 2 tickets. The bus driver did a 3 for 2 deal for us and we were all on! Public transport is amazingly cheap. On the bus we met a professional tennis coach who helped us find our destination.