Bob's Blog

This Blog will follow my adventures - well holidays really. Hopefully you will want to tell me what you enjoyed in the countries I have visited and maybe recommend places to go.

Friday, October 23, 2009

Lake Titicaca

At 3,800m Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world and from all the bedrooms in our hotel, the plate glass windows give a splendid view.
We had a glorious day (does the sky look bluer at altitude?) for a cruise in our private boat. Through the reeds, bird spotting, to one of the famous floating reed islands constructed by the Uros Indians. It is very much a commercial venture, set up for tourists, but it is done with humour and a very welcoming manner and we did get to see the basic way they have lived for centuries. Reeds about 3m thick, floating on 17m depth of water at this point close to the shore. (How did Ian guess the depth exactly right?). It is strange walking on these reeds as you sink in 10cm and feel unsteady. All their houses looked newly built with their excellent technique but were they using them or slipping to the mainland overnight?!
We had talks, demos and songs before we looked at their goods for sale. Finally a ride in a reed boat - viking style.

The holiday was well organised by Voyages Jules Verne - we had great hotels, food and guides. We have been insulated from some of the poverty and potential petty crime that inevitably accompanies rich tourists in a poor country. We have seen something of the truly amazing world of the Incas and gazed on Machu Picchu.

Cuzco to Puno by train

We did not know quite what to expect from this journey, as all we knew was that it would take 8 hours, in fact it took 10! Initial trepidation was dismissed when we saw the luxury compartment we were to travel in. Tablecloths, flowers and later cutlery and glasses, all placed with great care and minutely re-adjusted by each waiter. Even better was the bar and observation carriage. Tables and chairs to relax and then an open air section right at the back for the best photos.
We set off precisely on time, descended out of Cuzco before climbing with increasingkly splendid views of the mountains and exciting glimpses of the snow covered high Andes. We had a wonderful blue sky and a few well defined clouds but as we got close to the high point of 4,300m the sky became dark, there was lightning about and it hailed! This was sad because we stopped for 10 minutes and there was a small market for tourists to buy local made goods. This is probably the only income for these people and nobody ventured from the train into the cold! We moved on and descended slightly to the high plateau (altiplano). We had gone from fertile valley to the this brown flat landscape. There were occasional collections of a few dwellings, made from mud and straw bricks, and small herds of cattle or llamas. It seemed a meagre subsistence living. We saw one or two persons, usually women in traditional clothing, every few miles on this lonely landscape.
Then our splendid gourmet lunch was very slowly served - probably deliberately slowly as we were not being distracted by the scenery! A small group of waiters would march out in step and simultaneously place plates in front of us. Excellent food. Afterwards, we were entertained by some music and dancing and a demo of how to make a pisco sour and since happy hour followed, we indulged!
Now we pulled into Juliaca, the town before Puno and location of the airport. Here we saw desperate 3rd world poverty, contrasting to our life on the train. The rain added mud to the squalor. Stalls selling everything imaginable, workshops, some brick, more corrugated iron, almost blocked our way. They had to part for the daily train but reformed behind us as that space was too valuable to leave empty. Obviously we moved slowly, there being no protection of people or property from the train. Despite our feelings of despair for these living conditions, children smiled happily at us and waved.
A light but very fancy tea was served before we arrived in Puno and were transported to our luxury hotel. A world of 'haves' and 'have nots'.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu has been top of my ´want to see´ list for years and I had wanted to reach it by the Inca Trail. Perhaps I have delayed attempting that route too long and I do admire and envy those that complete that trek. However this trip was avaiable and Machu Picchu exceeded all expectations.
We made an early start to catch the vista dome train, then bus up many switch backs to be standing at the turnstiles - but in the rain! We could see the buildings, clearly separated into living and ceremonial sections but cloud and mist drifted across the peaks. This added an eerie quality to the dramatic landscapes but was not what I wanted! After about 3 hours around the site led by our knowledgeable guide, we were standing at the place from which the classic postcard view is taken, but still we were frustrated as clouds drifted across. Our guide left us and our party split with Ian, Katerina and I heading for the Inca bridge. This was a 20 minute walk with some precipitous edges to the path and as we approached the bridge there was rope attached to the wall to hang on to. The Inca Bridge cannot be used as it is in a state of disrepair but it consisted of 6 poles allowing the path to continue up the side of a vertical cliff - I am glad it is closed as the exposure would be extreme.
We returned to the Machu Picchu site and set off for the Sun Gate - I was determeined to do this as soon as I was on site and the other two certainly did not need any persuasion. The Sun Gate is where the walkers on the Inca Trail first see the lost city having climbed up the other side of that mountain. (Also on 21 December the sun rises at that point and reaches a ceremonial place.) Now the sun started to break through for us and we walked for about an hour, uphill of course with plenty of stops for breath as we are at about 2,500m. It was satisfying to reach the Sun Gate and admire the view which got better and better as we descended with the shadows enhancing the layout of the buildings and the structure of the surrounding mountains.
This was the highlight of the trip and it is an awe inspiring achievement of the Incas to build something with such precision, and it cannot be regarded as a primitive technology,
Altogether total satisfaction with our visit to this Number 1 place on earth!

Friday, October 16, 2009

Ollantaytambo

We stayed in the Sacred valley and took a 30 min drive to this village. Our guide took us on a gentle stroll around pointing out the Inca work and changes that had occurred. We looked in a compound that was structurally unchanged except for the thatched roof. Whereas one Inca family would have occupied it all, today separate families were in each room. It was a culture shock to see how they lived. The guinea pigs located themselves in one corner although were free to roam! They are an important income to the family. Cooking, a straw bed, and a table completed the basics. Lots of ornaments - Catholic and Inca were everywhere. It was sad to see how they live.
We walked on through the village and its shops and small market and the splendid Inca Temple of the Sun was in front of us some 60m higher above carefully constucted terraces. We walked up the many steps in warm sun with an increasing wind. The incas were bulding and replacing earlier work which used stones and mortar. The contrast was clear. The Incas never finished because of the collapse of their Empire, but this was some of their best work. Again we marvelled at the accuracy of the cutting of stones (granite in this case) such that there is no gap between them. We saw a large stone at an angle on lots of rubble in the process of being lifted into place.
The view from the top was magnificent - down into the village, both ways along the Sacred Valley, across the Valley to where the stone was initially quarried and to a mountain that towered over the village.
We relaxed with a taste of Chicha - a beer brewed from corn which can be sweetened with strawberries - and a game of sapo - where small discs are thrown at a small table with holes for the discs to drop into a drawer below each counting for points. I lost!

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Cuzco

Cuzco is a wonderful place to visit! It is the former capitol of the Inca Empire. Its only disadvantage is that it is about 3,600m above sea level and it takes some time to get used to this altitude.

Ian and I were able to explore the centre in the morning, walking very slowly (the slightest exertion had us breathless). It has the usual aftermath of the Spanish Catholicism - magnificent Cathedral and other public buildings in the Colonial style.

In the afternoon, with the rest of our group, we were driven to Sacsayhuaman (you are allowed to say sexy woman) which is a major Inca site. I cannot come to terms with how, with only hand tools, they built enormous walls with each huge block fitting to mm accuracy to the next one. The heaviest block is estimasterd at 120 tons. One wall was about 100m in zig zag fashion with the 18 points giving the orientation of the sun for each of their 20 day months. Another semi-circular wall was part of a means of creating a lake which was a mirror to look at the reflection of sun and moon.
The Incas built on the´ideas and technologies of earlier groups but how did they achieved so much while only controlling this part of the world for about 100 years.
We visited the site at Kenco where bodies were embalmed.
Finally back to Cuzco for the Inca Temple of the Sun, on which later buildings had been put. Even when blocks seem to have been simply put one on top of another, the Incas had a system of keying them together to prevent slippage! There are so many reasons for the placings of all the walls, doorways, windows, to tie in with astronomical observations.
We had a great day and were in awe of what the Incas achieved before they started to self distruct with civil war - and then the Spanish moved in!

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Lima

Ian and I were able to explore Miraflores in the morning before our guided tour in the afternoon.
We set out, map in hand, to look at the 2 parks that were 10 minutes walk from our hotel. They were very pleasant small parks which were in immaculate condition. Not surprising since about 20 gardeners had descended and were strimming, raking, sweeping, almost polishing. Then trays of bedding plants were being unloaded for immediate planting. We walked on, exhausted!
Then to the coast where we saw brightly cloured ceramic tiles in the fashion of Gaudi´s Parc Guell. This was the Park of Love! We walked north to the lighthouse, being impressed by the high rise buildings - flats would cost about 250,000 pounds - not bad, good view although it is misty 9 months of the year.
We turned round and headed south and the architecture got even better. There was a shopping mall on two levels which was as good as anything I have seen. Lots of designer clothes and we will be heading there again when we are back in Lima on our final day. We had a drink overlooking the sea and watched some kids performing acrobatics on the sand - and being filmed.
On the bus with the other 9 in our party, we set out at 2pm for the centre. Lima is much larger than I expected, 9 million people. Lots of very varied buildings as houses of many European countries were in between colonial buildings. Through many squares until we stopped and could get out at Plaza de Armas to look at and inside San Francisco Cathedral. It is a museum during the week and church on Sunday. Extravagant, opulent, Catholic architecture. We all spent a few minutes out in the sun before descending into the Catacombs where many thousands of people had been interned. Their bones very neatly arranged in pits with a glass front to stop us getting too close and irrelevant signs forbidding us to touch - ugh! One pit was 10 metres deep and nearly full of precisely arranged skulls and other bones!
From there, battling some crazy traffic, to a private collection of mostly pre-Inca pottery. (The Incas only ruled for about 100 years so why do we romanticise them to such an extent?). There was a wonderful display of what we thought were rare pieces and how lucky they have survived perhaps a 1000 years. We were then shown the storeroom with shelves floor to ceiling with some 30,000 beautiful and perfect ceramics. Amazing. Finally to the Gallery Erotica. Some of the pots had the most unreasonable handles on them - at least I think so. Lots of giggling in this room and I am not going to show any of the photos I took!
Lima proved to be a great surprise and for us, being in a group, a great City to visit.

Monday, October 12, 2009

Peru 11 - 23 October 2009

Ian and I were holidaying with Voyages Jules Verne´s The Lost World of the Incas.
An early flight from Birmingham took us to Amsterdam and then 12 hours on the KLM flight to Lima. We were well fed, and well looked after for drinks and snacks - we seem to be on a 2 hour feeding routine! An excellent selection of films kept us occupied.
It was about an hour´s drive to our hotel. Initially through very depressed areas with poor buildings but we then followed the coast for a few miles where extensive work is being done to create a dual carriageway, walkway and cycle track. The enormous amount of rock and soil is being moved to create a sort of beach area - but no sand!
Our hotel is very good and we have a large and comfortable room. Tomorrow we explore Lima.

Tuesday, October 06, 2009

Dorset, 25 Sep - 2 October 2009.




Cheryl's sister Ros invited Cheryl, Ian and myself to stay in a cottage near to her for a week. I travelled by train to Yeovil, a slow but scenic journey, and Cheryl and Ian drove down. The idea was to help Ros with garage and house so she could get started on some modernisation. I think we succeeded in that and it is now over to the professionals.
The cottage we stayed in was wonderful - large lounge, dining room, modern kitchen, conservatory and a garden to sit out in. 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms - luxury. It was a very sociable week with Ros joining us for dinner on all but 1 evening and breakfast on a couple of mornings. Ian had to go off to work for Monday! We were able to eat outside for some lunches and breakfasts, the weather was so warm.
Ros' cottage is thatched, as are many in the village, with magnificent beams and thick stone walls. Thomas Hardy's mother slept next door and the man himself frequented the pub we ate in!
We had 2 significant trips out - a good walk led us down to Chesil Beach. I wanted to see it as I have read the book! There are lovely views from the hills inland of this long spit of land. It is shingle and very tiring to walk on. Geologists argue why this should have been built up separated from the land and a fresh water lagoon.
Another day we visited the National Trust's Studland Beach - a long beach of beautiful sand with a Naturist section, well designated, and a Nature Reserve. It was warm enough to sit in the sun and eat our sandwiches.
Altogether a satisfying week, giving me an idea of how beautiful Dorset's countryside and beaches are, and being of help to Ros.

Skegness, 11-13 September 2009.

My first visit to Butlins at Skegness for a Jive Addiction dance weekend. Jane, who has danced at many weekenders, and Irene, at her first such event, were my excellent companions.
The accomodation was so much better than similar events at Southport, almost too comfortable. At Southport, getting out of the accommodation to the dancing was top priority! The dance halls used were a little distance apart and other holiday makers were on the site, which was a slight disadvantage. We had some good classes and good dancing in the evenings, so the weekend easily met expectations. It took Irene a little while to get accustomed to the event but I am sure she will be ready for more in the future.
We were lucky with weather and managed a walk along the beach with a compulsory ice cream.

Melanie, 6th August 2009.

I remember Melanie well from the 70's, I think, with Ruby Tuesday in particular. When I mentioned her concert appearance in Nottingham to Cheryl, nostalgia took over. The first record (it was a record then) Cheryl bought was of Melanie and apparently she played it full volume, driving her parents mad. So she made a flying visit for the concert in the small, but appropriate, Nottingham Arts Theatre. Accompanied by her son, a brilliant guitar player.
A great concert with so many of her hit songs. She looked and sounded like the Melanie of old, if a little larger. A cake was brought on stage at the end as it is 40 years since she hit the headlines at Woodstock.
We also found time to look at the excellent Paul Sandby exhibition at the Castle.